Thursday, May 7, 2015

MACH 15: Day 11 - Interstatement 2

Wednesday Day 11
May 6, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

It looks like a stormy afternoon and evening in northern Virginia.  Since we have a short day and thus the opportunity to avoid mid-afternoon storms, we roll out of Roanoke, VA in time to be home before the storms, but still fashionably late at about 9:30 AM.  The sky is lightly overcast and the temperature is 70 F.

As Interstates go, I-81 is more interesting than many.  It presents a constantly-changing vista, and the sometimes misty mountains on both sides of the Shendandoah Valley are usually visible in sharp contrast to the rolling farmland of the valley.  Two days ago while traversing the wooded rolling hills of Alabama, I mentioned something of this to Kitty.

"I'm not bored!" she responded.

I looked around for a few seconds.  We were on what by most accounts would be called a "boring" stretch of Interstate, leading straight ahead through interminable wooded surroundings that many would pass through with barely a glance, and be glad to be done with it when something changes.

"There are tiny multicolored flowers by the roadside.  I like that the road has shoulders between us and the ditches on each side.  The leaves on the trees are different shades of green.  Those white flowering bushes smell good."

"So, life is what you make it?" I asked.

This exchange represents a microcosm of our rides.  Of course we love the dramatic Rocky Mountain scene or a surf-blasted rocky seascape as well as the next person.  But it's impossible to be at these places all the time.  So why not make the best of the distances between those spectacular scenes?  That's one of the reasons we ride:  If only the best scenes matter, let's just hop on a plane, go see it, and go home again.  To us, that seems like a really narrow life view that leaves so much potential on the "never did that" list.  We believe that every scene has interest, and we try to take something of value from every situation, because every situation offers something.

I prefer two-lane roads when traveling two-up with Kitty, but when it's time to make an Interstatement, or when you have to go somewhere fast, the Gold Wing may be unparalleled in that category.  Of course, riders of other marquees may differ, but then, I'm the one writing the blog.

Less than an hour and a half into our trek, we pull off at Staunton, VA for a comfort break, and I fuel with a half tank remaining.  It could be our last stop.

But the day is growing warmer, and so are we under the liners we'd inserted into our mesh jackets.  So we pull off into a rest stop to remove the liners.

At rest stops and hotels, people almost always want to talk, especially when we travel as a couple. It's an interesting dynamic, and wen traveling solo not nearly as many people approach me.  I think Kitty's presence helps people see us as a "safe" couple and encourages folks to initiate conversation.  They fall into two categories:  First, those who ride a motorcycle and want to talk about motorycling, compare notes, seek common shared experiences.  The other category is those who don't ride, who are curious about what it's like to ride cross-country for thousands of miles on a motorcycle.

The first group always wants to talk about shared experiences, a conversation without a lot of questions.  Here are some of the questions we hear from the second group, the non-riders, the casual "that seems like fun" or "I wish i could do that" group.

The most common question is "What's it like pulling that trailer?"  My answer is always the same:  On the road, you would not know it's back there except that it appears in the mirrors.  It exacts a fuel mileage toll of around 15%.  I can feel a little of its weight when starting or slowing.  And I always joke "You have to remember to drive 6 feet from the gas pump before making your turn!"  Actually, that isn't a joke.  It's important!  And, then there's the backing-up-the-trailer thing.  For aspiring trailer-pullers, I'd recommend practicing in your driveway.  When all your neighbors are gone.  It does take a bit of practice.  Every time I back into or out of a parking space, I still make it a game to see if I can get the bike and trailer aligned perfectly and pointing in the direction we want to travel.

I'm often asked "Do you wear contact lenses?"  Yes.  And I have less trouble wearing them on the road than in an office with dry, cool air blowing over my face all day.  We wear full-face helmets, and behind those and the big windshield, there is not much wind unless the face shield is open.

"What do you do when it rains?"  I sometimes answer "Wish I were at home in bed."  But not really.  We have high-quality rain gear made especially for motorcycle riding.  This means that the pants and jacket sleeves are extra long, awkwardly so off the bike, but when in riding position, they are perfect.  The suits are built to take the buffeting of many days at road speed in the rain should that be necessary.  We recently switched to TourMaster (http://www.tourmaster.com) two-piece suits which we have yet to test, as we didn't hit any rain on this trip.  It is rare indeed that rain has changed our route, although we occasionally avoid severe weather by hanging out somewhere safe.  But there was that time in New England, coming home from the Gaspe Peninsula, when... well, that's another story, actually already written in another blog segment.

"How do you keep your feet dry?"  We both have Cruiserworks waterproof boots (http://www.cruiserworks.com), although I recently learned that they've discontinued the women's boot line.  These 12-inch boots are made for motorcycling with grippy oil-resistant tread on the soles and reinforced arch support to minimize fatigue and vibration from long hours with feet on the pegs.  They look like any high-quality leather boot that you could wear into a restaurant, but they are absolutely waterproof.  They are expensive, but one of the best motorcycle apparel investments we've ever made.

Under sunny skies, we make the turn at I-81 Mile Marker 300 onto I-66 when XM Weather makes a sublimely ridiculous announcement in the headset:  "Weather alert.  Precipitation in the area.  Clear, with rain in the area."  I check the weather screen and sure enough, behind us, working in the mountains of West Virginia, are the beginnings of pop-up showers that often occur due to uneven cooling and heating of the atmosphere.  There's no rain in our intended path.

We arrive at home by mid-afternoon and slowly unpack.  We've been in six states on our short-for-us tour of 2,707 miles:  Virginia, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, and Georgia.  This has been the only tour I can recall where we had no rainy weather, instead riding for all 11 days almost always in brilliant sunshine.  In another unusual twist, temperatures have been unusually pleasant, with the highest noted temperatures hovering at 84 F and one brief foray to 86 F.

An hour later the entire area around  home is being pelted by dime-sized hail and torrential downpours.



GPS Track for Day 11



GPS Track for Entire Trip of 2,707 Miles



GPS Elevation Graph

Below is the GPS elevation graph of the entire trip.  It literally represents a cross-section of elevation above sea level for the tour.  I've included it because of several interesting features.

First, the striking identical "bookends" with exactly the same elevation profile.  This happens when the same route is taken on both outbound and inbound legs of the tour; in this case, it is the profile of the segment between home and Knoxville, TN, where the route was almost exactly the same in both directions.

Second, the profile of Tennessee's Cumberland Plateau is visible between the 500- and 600-mile distance markers, with a dramatic elevation change from about 800 feet to 2,000 feet.

Last, spanning mileage markers of about 950 to 1,150 miles, you will notice the extraordinarily flat profile of the Mississippi Delta, where the elevation showed a gradual decrease of only about 100 feet in 200 miles of travel.  Is it any wonder the Mississippi River winds about like a snake in that part of the country?  Just after that, between 1,150 and 1,200 miles, you can see the brief rise into the wooded hills north of Vicksburg, MS, and then the return to near sea level.  And from this point, only about 100 feet above sea level, the Mississippi still travels well over 300 miles until it empties into the Gulf of Mexico.  Awesomely flat land!






Wednesday, May 6, 2015

MACH 15: Day 10 - Interstatement

Tuesday Day 10
Cinco de Mayo, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

437 miles today, 2,490 miles total.

"It's only 624 miles to home.  We can be there by 8:00 PM plus fuel stops," I say in the headset as we strike out northward on I-59.  It's another gorgeous morning, not a single cloud visible in the entire sky from horizon to horizon.

I find the perfect seating position on the big comfortable seat and it's one of those mornings when I feel as though I could ride the 600 miles home without ever changing position, without ever stopping except for fuel stops.  I think Kitty might actually be thinking the same thing.  My Gold Wing becomes an extension of myself, effortlessly gobbling up miles and miles of a black magic carpet that magically appear in my windshield, pass under my boots, and disappear in my mirrors.

As we cross the state line from Alabama into Georgia, we lose the hour we gained a week ago and I watch the GPS-synchronized clock in my multi-function display suddenly jump ahead one hour.  Since it's slaved to the GPS time, and the GPS knows where it is at all times, it also knows exactly when the time zone changes.  It also factors in time zone changes when it estimates destination arrival times.

We catch I-24 and ride for several miles in Georgia before crossing into Tennessee.  Reality intrudes into this Interstatement when we stop for a comfort break at the Tennessee welcome center, 45 minutes into the day.

In the welcome center, strapped to a trailer, stands a 15-foot cow, its origin and purpose a mystery.  From the front, this is one scary-looking cow!  Just as we are ready to leave, a man wonders over and starts talking motorcycles.  His name is Mike; he's a trucker, and is also the Safety Coordinator for the GWRRA (Gold Wing Road Riders Association) chapter, or perhaps for the entire state of Tennessee.  He's quite a story-teller, and an hour after our stop we finally set off northward toward Chattanooga.

"Well, I had visions of riding all the way home today," says Kitty.  "But one stop like that pretty much changes that picture."  She's right:  To ride over 600 miles in a day, especially one where we lose an hour, requires a commitment to steady (not fast) riding and minimizing stopped time.

We navigate through Chattanooga and Knoxville amid heavy truck traffic, pick up I-40, and stop for fuel at Exit 419, just south of where I-81 splits off to the north from I-40.  My buddy Ray and I used to meet at this exit for breakfast on many of our cross-country rides together.  We both had GPS units and left our homes at the respective time to have us to this exit at 11:00 AM on a particular day.  For me, that mean leaving the house between 3:00 AM and 4:00 AM; I had a little farther than Ray, but we always ended up here just minutes apart.  Today, it's just fuel and lunch at a Subway, then we're on our way, after being informed by a guy in a red pickup truck that my left low beam headlight is out.  I add it to the list of service items for when I return home.  I'll also need a new rear tire before my next trip.  The stretch from Chattanooga to Knoxville is among my least favorite Interstate stretches because of the heavy traffic generated by the convergence of five or six Interstate roads, and I'm glad to have it behind me.

We ride 206 miles from here without a stop or a pause, crossing from Tennessee to Virgina at Bristol, which is bisected by the state line.  I give Kitty many opportunities to stop for a break or for the evening, as it's now after 5:30 PM local time.  But it's her idea to ride without a break to the next fuel stop, which we complete at Christiansburg, VA, and then ride the 30 miles or so to Roanoke, VA, to the same hotel where we stayed on our first night.

About an hour before, I was startled by the XM Weather announcing "Weather alert.  Precipitation in the area.  Rain in the area."  Sure enough, several small pop-up showers were making little green splotches on the display, but none in our path.  It's the first rain or even water-bearing clouds we've seen since we left home Sunday a week ago.  I don't recall any trip taken this time of year, when the weather is at its most active, where we have made an entire trip without rain.  We'll see tomorrow - looks a little sketchy.  The closest we come today is at the fuel stop, where a few drops of rain splatter on the windshield.  The temperature has dropped from a trip-high of 84 F to 72 F, so we insert the liners into our mesh jackets for the remainder of the ride.

By the time we arrive in Roanoke, the sky is once again cloudless and the temperature has risen to 82 F.  After checking in at the hotel (we'd not made reservations and we are fortunate they have a few rooms left), it seems apropos to walk to the Mexican restaurant next door and join the Cinco de Mayo revelers.  But by this time it's after 9:00 PM and the revelers are mostly leaving the restaurant just as we arrive.  Apparently the revelry stops early here in Roanke.  So we enjoy a sedate Cinco de Mayo celebration and excellent Mexican fare.

Today's GPS elevation graph is of some interest, showing significant elevation changes with a maximum elevation around Wytheville, VA.  We've covered four states and ridden almost 450 miles today; we expect to be home tomorrow after a short ride of a little over 200 miles.  





GPS Track (Dark Gray)




Monday, May 4, 2015

MACH 15: Day 9 - The Road More Traveled

Monday Day 9
May 4, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

The two older kids and Kevin are up and out the door by 7:05 (why do they start school so early, anyway?).  We say our good-byes and I notice when Kitty puts her helmet that I'd forgotten to wax it after the kids had plastered it with fingerprints.  I start to get out the waxing cloths and wax.

"Stop!  I want those fingerprints on my helmet!" says Kitty emphatically.  So she dons the helmet, fingerprints and all, including those all over the face shield!  This definitely wouldn't work for me, but if she wants the grandkids fingerprints on the helmet as a reminder, well, it's her helmet.

It's almost 9:30 as we ease onto US 49 northbound, and we stop immediately to fuel.

"What do you have in mind for a stopping time this evening?" asks Kitty.

"Whenever we feel like stopping," I respond.  We have a little over 1,000 miles to travel and there's no particular rush.  "How about 5:30-ish?" she says.  That sounds like a plan.
 
We ride at the speed limit on the four-lane US 49 to Hattiesburg, MS, where we catch I-59 north and then run into I-20 at Meridian, MS.

This is an uneventful Interstate day, followed most of the day by the pleasant sweet, heavy scent of a flowering shrub that we identify as the source, but don't know what it is.  We don't necessarily ride tank-to-tank, and when we do stop I top off the fuel whether it's necessary or not.  Much of the Interstate between Hattiesburg and Meridian has been newly resurfaced, and this is as nice a road surface as I recall being on.  Kitty even comments about it.

Eventually we make our way northward on the Birmingham Bypass, I-459, contemplate stopping at Gadsen, AL but Kitty suggests riding until we need fuel; so for this leg, we do ride tank-to-tank without stopping.  I've commented before about my LD Comfort riding shorts (http://www.ldcomfort.com).  These riding shorts have made the most amazing difference in my ability to ride long distances with absolutely no "tired-butt syndrome" or pain on the underside of the legs where the seat applies a pressure point.  Kitty has a pair as well, and on a former trip she was not greatly impressed.  This trip, though, has made a believer out of her as well.

Neither of us have any sign of butt-fatigue when we stop for fuel and for the night in Ft. Payne, AL after our easy 412-mile ride.  We find fuel, a nice motel, and a great steak and fajita place all within walking distance.   The weather has been brilliant for this whole trip, and today was no exception, starting out at 64 F and ending at 80 F, a very pleasant sunny ride.

It's a nice way to end the day.  But I'm a little sad as I wax Little B's handprints off the trailer.

GPS Track



Sunday, May 3, 2015

MACH 15: Day 8 - Around the Neighborhood

Sunday Day 8
May 2, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

Our son Kevin's biggest workday is Sunday.  This morning, while most people are are taking a break or sleeping in, he arrives at work before 5:00 AM.  He's the lead pastor of Gulf Coast Worship Center.  Apparently he has more material than he can cover in one session and in a rare moment, forgot his notes at the office.  So today he has to pare away almost half his sermon by go time.

The rest of the family arrives before 9:30 AM, all traveling in the family van while the bike and trailer rest safely in the garage.  Apparently the sermon surgery is successful and his take-a-stand message seems to be intact and ends at the normal time.

Today is a celebratory day with about 20 people scheduled for baptism.  Baptism here is by literal immersion, and a large portable swimming pool has been set up outside.  After the service, everyone gathers around the pool while smoke from the BBQ grill wafts over the viewers and those being baptized.  Afterwards everyone enjoys the products of the BBQ grill in a picnic atmosphere.


The grandkids have been anticipating a motorcycle ride since the time they knew we'd be riding to Mississippi, so one by one, we tour the neighborhood on the big red bike with trailer attached.  The neighbor's kids want a ride too, but we kindly tell them only our family is allowed to ride on the motorcycle.  And thus through the neighborhood many times over with three different passengers.  Many folks are on their porches or in the lawn, smiling and waving as they soon figure out why the big bike with small people is making multiple passages through their streets.  Sometimes kids on bicycles come out to challenge the big red motorcycle, and I exercise an extreme level of caution.  The youngest, Brenham, isn't quite ready to be a solo passenger, so we squeeze him onto the seat between Kitty and me.  This pushes my backrest forward into an uncomfortable position but it's fine for a short neighborhood ride.  Carter and Danica are able to ride as solo passengers.  They all wear Kitty's helmet, and are fascinated that we can communicate in a normal tone of voice.

"Can you listen to music?" asks Danica.

In response I push the Audio button and instantly our helmet headsets are flooded with high-quality digitally-transmitted music from the last Sirius XM channel I'd selected, which happens to be The Message (Channel 63).

"Cool!" says Danica.  "I didn't know a motorcycle could listen to music."

Tomorrow the two older kids will be off to school with Kevin early in the morning, and we plan to start our homeward journey sometime after that. Unlike our outbound trip focusing on two-lane and country roads, trip parameters require that the journey home will be by Interstate this time.  I'd thought of taking an alternate route but Kevin says that route is the most boring he's ever been on.

So, facing the risk of death by boredom, I suppose we'll navigate via the usual route, which is just another mostly-Interstate route but hopefully with a more favorable interest-per-mile ratio.






GPS Neighborhood Track 


Saturday, May 2, 2015

MACH 15: Day 7 - Funky Places and Family

Saturday Day 7
May 2, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

Today is a complicated morning.  We've got a lot of repacking and rearranging to do.  Kitty and I wear what, in motorcycle parlance, is called "ATGATT" - All the Gear, All the Time.  That means boots, long jeans or equivalent, jacket, helmet, and gloves.  To manage the temperature extremes of this trip (expected to be from upper 30's to low 80's) we packed two sets of jackets: Leather jackets with liners for cool weather, mesh jackets for warmer weather.  We wore the leather jackets for the first three days, then switched out; in either case, the unworn set of jackets can fit into the left saddlebag.  But we'd unhooked the trailer for the last two days and emptied the saddlebag to give us a little packing room while roaming around the countryside.

We try to carefully stick to an exact routine when packing and unpacking so we always know where everything is, and everything is accounted for.  But this morning everything is out of place and out of the routine.  I reattach the trailer, check the lights and electrical system; we carefully replace the picnic chairs, repack the leather jackets, make sure all our stuff is accounted for.

We'd talked last night and this morning about what to do in terms of our riding today.  The scheduled group ride will be to the north, when our destination is to the south.  This puts our ability to make it to Gulfport and our family in time.  At 8:22 a text message arrives from our daughter-in-law:  "Just wondering about an eta 4 u today.  We've got some super excited kiddos!"

We decide to forego the group ride and make our way southward to Gulfport.  Jack and Tezz are talking about doing some kind of back-road ride to end up at the Old Country Store for fried chicken.  They invite us to ride along.

As I'm making my good-byes to friends, I find myself looking for Roger, in whose memory this year's event has been held.  I am caught up short with the realization that he's not here, and Marlene and I have a little chat and a long hug before we separate.

At 10:00 AM most of the group leave for their ride northward, while Jack and Tezz, Kitty and I wander off southward.  We encounter some extreme back-country roads, and at one point, after traveling for some miles, find a "Road Closed" sign.  To the left is a road with a "Dead End" sign.  As we are debating what to do, a pickup truck arrives; Tezz flags him down and we find out the road really is open so we continue.

Looking for a comfort break, we wander into a tiny village hoping to find a rest room, but find only a few staring people and a US Post Office.  So on to Port Gibson, where Jack and Tezz decide to ride some more before lunch, whereas Kitty and I decide it's time to head southward in earnest.  It's about 11:30 AM.

We shake hands and exchange hugs, and we leave them in the parking lot and ride toward the Natchez Trace.  We find the entrance ramps and every bridge is undergoing resurfacing.  I'd never noticed how many bridges there are on the Trace!  After a few miles we abandon the Trace and ride US 61 straight to Lorman, MS and The Old Country Store for lunch.

Just as we alight from the bike, I see two Gold Wings riding slowly into the parking lot.  It's Gibby and his friend Will!  By happenstance, we'd both decided to have lunch here.  The very funky Old Country Store has been described elsewhere in my blogs, and we visit it every year when we ride to Vicksburg.  I'm not much of a fried chicken fan, but this chicken is truly exceptional:  Moist, crispy, hot, and not at all greasy.  There's a review of the place on Roadfood.com, http://www.roadfood.com/Restaurant/Reviews/1320/old-country-store.

Just as the four of us finish lunch, in walk Jack and Jezz, so we say goodbye again.  At about 1:45 PM, Kitty and I head south, Gibby and Will head back north to parts unknown.

I've pre-routed a mostly two-lane trip to our son's home and follow US 82  faithfully through the Mississippi forests until we reach the town of Tylerton.  At this point, Slow-down Guy has between replaced by someone who is sensing urgency to see his family, so I pull over at a convenient place, abandon the route I've created, and tell the GPS to take me to "Kev House New" the fastest way possible.  This shaves about 25 minutes from the route time, and we follow US 82 to Hattiesburg where we catch US 49 south to Gulfport.

When we make the last turn to the house, our granddaughter Danica is out on her bicycle.  When she sees us she jumps up and down and challenges us to a race to the house.  Carter and Brenham come running up and wrestle each other for the first hug, even before we are off the bike.  "Careful, the motorcycle is very hot!" I caution.  "Let Nona and Papa get off the bike first, then we do hugs."

Soon the whole family is at one of my favorite eating places here in Gulfport, The Shed BBQ and Blues Joint (http://theshedbbq.com/gulfport).  The barbecue in this funky place is always good, and tonight there's a live blues/rock band on the stage outside.

It's good to ride all over the country and see its wonderful sights, but tonight we're more content being with our Mississippi family.






MACH 15: Day 6 - Crawfish on My Mind

Thursday Day 6
May 1, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

Picky said yesterday the ride would leave at 10:00 AM.  From previous experience, I know he means 10:00 AM.  If he meant 10:01 AM he would have said "The ride leaves at 10:01 AM."  By the time I finish yesterday's blog, grab a quick breakfast in the hotel breakfast room, and shower, it's time to line up the bike for departure.  We are #20 of 24 motorcycles plus a chase car driven by someone who's unable to ride because of a back surgery.

Picky makes it clear that this ride has not been pre-ridden, so join at your own risk.  Typically when someone hosts a ride it's protocol to do a pre-ride to account for any special circumstances like road closures, tricky navigational moments, or road conditions.  As he's from Missouri, it's hard to do a pre-ride in Mississippi.

Picky and his tail gunner, Dick, have worked together on many rides and communicate via CB to keep the group together and intact.  Grant's Canal is the first stop, so we cross the Mississippi into Louisiana and take the first exit.

"I see a sign that says 'Road Closed 1000 feet - Local Traffic Only'" says Picky on the CB.  Oops!  That's why a route is normally pre-ridden.  So several dozen big bikes and one car have to make a loop through a little grocery store parking lot and head back the way we came.  There is, however, a sign for Grant's Canal so we carefully ride the bikes into the small parking area and jockey for position.

Grant's Canal is really a non-canal.  During the Civil War, Vicksburg was a highly strategic Confederate stronghold:  Whoever controlled Vicksburg controlled the Mississippi River traffic.  It so happens that Vicksburg is located near the tip of a u-shaped segment of the Mississippi; the union forces felt that by digging a 1.5 mile canal across the legs of the U, they could bypass Vicksburg and gain control of the Mississippi north of here.  The location was just out of range of the gun batteries of Vicksburg.  The first attempt failed because the river level dropped and left the canal bed dry.  The second attempt failed because the river flooded and literally washed everything away.  General Grant of the Union forces thought this was such a strategic venture that he ordered a new attempt with the goal of diverting the Mississippi and creating a shipping lane deep enough for any vessel navigating the river.  But by this time Vicksburg had build new gun batteries, and the troops were under constant bombardment.  Dysentery and other diseases were rampant, half the men died, and the project was abandoned.

Next, Picky leads us to US 65 south at Richmond, LA.  This is an impromptu addition to the ride, as he thought Grant's Canal was at a location more distant that 20 miles or so from the hotel.  US 65 is a lot like the Mississippi Delta, with flat farmland as far as the eye can see.  About 25 miles later, near Newellton, he pulls the group off to the right to view a giant mailbox.  How does he even know where these things are?  (I ask him later and he says there's a website dedicated to quirky monuments and attractions.  The URL is http://www.roadsideamerica.com.)  

We find a place where the bikes can loop through another parking lot and ride as a group back to the hotel, some peeling off for lunch.  After lunch, this seems like an excellent time for a nap, so that is why there's some blank space in this blog.










At 5:00 PM it's time to mount up and head for Toney's, the designated crawfish restaurant for MACH.  I count over 40 people and lose track; when faced with heaping plates of sumptuous, steaming, spicy crawfish, it's hard to keep one's mind on anything else.

Kitty thinks they are a little spicier this year and maybe a little bigger.  In one of these photos she's showing that this is her second plate.  I'm actually too busy consuming heaping plates of them along with corn on the cob and potatoes to count her plates but I'm pretty sure there are at least three for her and, well, more than that for me.  We make this ride every year when we can for the friendships and the camaraderie, to enjoy the fellowship of bikers, but it would be worth it just for the crawfish.  The locals say Toney's crawfish are the best in Vicksburg.  I wouldn't know, I just eat at Toney's.

Afterwards we once again form a large parking lot circle of chairs, and after dark the "campfire" with marshmallows and popcorn make an appearance for the second night in a row.

Our plans for tomorrow are uncertain.  In past years, our Saturday ride has taken us south of Vicksburg, from where we have peeled off to ride the four hours to our son's home in Gulfport.  But this year, Picky has chosen a route that will take the group north of Vicksburg, which may move us out of position to make the ride to Gulfport by evening. Our good friends Jack and Tezz have invited us for a quiet trip down the Natchez Trace that would culminate at the Country Store, which has been our usual jumping-off point.  So we're not sure which, if any, of these options we will exercise tomorrow.

But we hope to be with our Mississippi family by evening.













GPS Track (gray) - Ride-around Day



Friday, May 1, 2015

MACH 15: Day 5 - Vicksburg or Bust

Thursday Day 5
April 30, 2015
Copyright(c) 2015, Jim Beachy

250 miles, 1,234 miles total

I am awakened by the sound of the door to our hotel room closing.  It's 5:50 and Kitty is already on her way to the gym for her morning walk.  By 7:30 we are at breakfast, hoping to get a little earlier start today.

"There's a bike parked behind ours," she says.  Last night I'd simply asked the hotel clerk for the best place to park the bike, and he told us to park it under the entrance canopy.

"What kind of bike is it?" I ask.

"Orange."

Orange?  I laugh out loud at her response.  Tens of thousands of miles traveling together, inspecting hundreds of motorcycles from Gold Wing to BMW to Triumph to Ducati to Victory to Harley Davidson, and this is her best answer?  Orange?


As it turns out, there are actually two bikes pulled under the canopy behind ours:  One orange and one green Harley-Davidson.  I realize that I didn't pull forward as far as I could have, leaving the rear bike with barely enough room to squeeze in under the canopy.  I actually write a little note of apology and slide it under the green bike's seat.  We never see the riders.

This morning we are on the road by a little after 8:30.  As we strike out westward toward US 61, which roughly parallels Mississippi River, we see six FedEx planes in the landing pattern for Memphis International Airport.  There are no visible commercial flights.  I'm reminded that Memphis is the hub for all FedEx overnight and airfreight deliveries; FedEx has become a global study in efficiency and out-of-the-box thinking:  Who would think that an overnight package from, say, Baltimore MD to Washington DC would make the trip to Memphis and back?  FedEx is the largest air carrier in the world.

Turning south on US 61, we immediately get a sense of the vastness of the Mississippi Delta.  The flat lands stretch in every direction as far as the eye can see, millions and millions of acres, hundreds of square miles of fertile flatland agriculture.  This early in the year, many of the fields are bare and we can see that much of the soil is sandy.  The levees and swamp lands are full to the brim, often edging into the fields themselves.

We soon stop at the Tunica Visitor Center, which is focused on the history of blues music and the musicians who originated in this area.  Howlin' Wolf, Robert Johnson, Muddy Waters, these are names that spring to my mind.   While not actually born in this area, BB King in a more modern era has certainly become the face of the Delta Blues style of music.  There are many blues festivals in the small towns that line the Mississippi here in the Delta.  After we leave the Visitor Center, I find Sirius XM Bluesville (Channel 70) and we are serenaded in our headsets for the rest of our day by the vocals and guitar riffs of 12-bar blues.

We've learned that corn is the first crop to go into the fields, followed by summer wheat, soybeans, even peanuts, and finally, cotton.  We leave US 61 and find MS 1 as it runs closer to the Mississippi River.  We never actually see the river; I'd expected we could find a small town, or a small road that leads to the river, and there probably are some, but dusty gravel roads are off limit for my big bike.

As we ride southward, we see vast fields in various stages of preparation or growth.  I'm struck how in the days of slavery, before modern farm implements, raising crops on these vast expanses would have been economically unfeasible if the thousands of laborers had to be paid a working wage.  Yet I find it repugnant that the cotton industry and other industrial segments were built on the backs of slaves who had no choice in the matter.

Today, huge farm implements replace the thousands of field workers.  There are giant machines to prepare the soil, plant the crops, and, eventually, to harvest them.  I imagine one of those giant machines can do in an hour what it took a hundred laborers a day to accomplish.  Out here, the highway is a transportation mode shared between two tourists on a Gold Wing, the occasional car, lots of trucks, and sometimes large farm equipment.


The shoulders of the highway are constituted of deep coarse gravel so I can never really find a place for photography, but I shoot quite a few shots through the windshield by setting my camera to "sports" mode.

"What's your impression of the Mississippi Delta?" I ask Kitty.

She hesitates for a second and comes back with "Flat."  Well, that's certainly an apt description.  Our GPS elevation graph for the day shows a steady, imperceptible drop of less than 200 feet in several hundred miles.  This is awesomely flat land!


Nearing the town of Benoit, Kitty says in my headset over the guitar of BB King, "I think you'd better find a place to pull over."

Instantly alarmed, I ask what's wrong, and she says she feels nauseated.  Nauseated, inside a helmet, and on a motorcycle - these are not good combinations.  Fortunately, at that moment we pass a little cutout for the entry to a field, and I'm able to sneak the bike and trailer off the road and set the four-way flashers.  She drinks some water, eats a protein bar, and after 20 minutes or so feels OK to continue into town where we stop a gas station to assess our future.

After another half hour, she feels ready to continue, but just as I start the bike she has another bout.  We try to figure out what's happening.  Low blood sugar?  Probably not because it did not really improve upon eating.  Hypovolemia (not enough water intake)?  Possibly, because before and after her 4-mile walks she normally drinks copious amounts of water, and today, knowing rest room breaks would be at a premium, she drank less. Or possibly food-related?  We never really figure it out, and an hour later we set out again to the town of Greenville where we have a proper lunch.  Afterwards, she feels fine.  It remains a mystery.

About 40 miles north of Vicksburg, the topography begins its metamorphosis from the flatlands of the Delta into the rolling, wooded hills of central Mississippi.  This is evident on the GPS elevation graph.


We arrive at the MACH hotel a little before 4:00 PM.  Only a few folks are here at the moment.  Gordon (who sucked diesel fuel out of my fuel tank in a galaxy long ago and far away), Gibby (who always comes over to give Kitty a bear hug), and others.  The small group decides to head out for dinner; I'm still removing bugs from the bike, so I tell them we'll catch up.  Just as I finish and am ready to leave, the Missouri contingent arrives on a dozen or more Gold Wings.

After dinner, we all pull out picnic chairs (see, you can carry picnic chairs when you tow a trailer) and sit in a circle chatting.  Suddenly the manager and an assistant appear carrying over half a dozen conference room chairs, and a large package of bottled water.  It's a quiet group and the hotel likes having us here, but the gesture surprises me.  After a while, someone begins talking about a campfire, and within a short time someone produces a disposable sterno "hotplate", some graham crackers, marshmallows, and chocolate bars.  Having no sticks for toasting marshmallows, someone runs to the little store down the hill and buys some metal coat hangers.  With the help of a Leatherman side-cutter, we are soon roasting marshmallows.  And thus, sitting around our "campfire" in the middle of a hotel parking lot, we create and devour our s'mores.  At some point someone produces a package of Jiffy-Pop popcorn that's heated over the flame and we all have several small servings of popcorn.  A second packet is attempted but the sterno peters out before it's finished, and a loud lament is heard throughout the land.  Nevertheless, our impromptu campfire has been a great success!

Nobody sings Kum Ba Ya.
GPS Track (gray)