Thursday, July 2, 2009

Gaspésie Gambol, Day 11

Country Roads
Thursday July 2, 2009
Copyright(c) 2009, Jim Beachy

This morning, Bailey Island is fog-shrouded, rain-lashed, and wind-whipped, just as it’s been for the past 34 days if we are to believe the locals. Kitty and I are in the Bailey Island Motel intently watching the Weather Channel. I am indecisive. Centered on Boston, 125 miles southwest from where we are near Brunswick, Maine, is a monster red splotch, a huge storm churning northward, dumping inches of rain and generating 700 lightning strikes per hour. The mountains of New Hampshire, where we intend to ride today, are relatively quiet at the moment but this storm will reach them this afternoon. A quick BlackBerry WeatherBug check on several cities in New Hampshire and Vermont shows that they are forecasting extremely heavy rain this evening with flash flood warnings in all the places I check.

So there’s the dilemma. Do we ride the mountains and hope we are in a motel somewhere before the heavy stuff hits? Or do we ride into the storm and find a rest area if it gets too bad? And if we skip the mountains, should we try to make it home in two days? Or should we hang out at Bailey Island for a day in this warm and friendly environment?

Working through the possibilities, I finally decide that with a 34-day history of bad weather and with no sign of any new emerging weather pattern, hanging out for the day on Bailey Island probably won’t help all that much. So that leaves two possibilities, both of which involve riding somewhere today, so I tell Kitty “Let’s pack up. By the time we leave, maybe I’ll know what to do.”

Kitty recuses herself from any decision-making process. “You’re the driver!” she keeps saying.

Checking out of the hotel, Doreen tries her best to entice us to stay until tomorrow. I have to admit that is a tempting option with the temperature at 53F and the landscape shrouded in fog and lashed with rain. “I’ve never seen him so indecisive!” says Kitty. “Usually he can make up his mind in a minute and we have a plan.” She’s right. I am indecisive.

We have already done the Dance of the Rainsuit and are wearing our helmets so everything stays dry as we walk out into the rain and I back the bike and trailer out of its parking space. Just then a hotel employee comes running up in the pouring rain holding my leather riding jacket. “Is this yours?” she asks. Wow, close call! I’d hung it in the closet with Kitty’s last night and she thought I’d wear it this morning, but I usually don’t wear my leather jacket with the rain suit, just layers of other clothing. Somehow I missed it in the last-minute room sweep we always perform. We’ve never left anything behind but this was close.

I still don’t know what to do as we slowly ride the 14 foggy and soggy miles back to the mainland where I refuel the Wing. Finally I say, “I almost feel irresponsible taking us up into the mountains knowing there’s big dangerous weather moving in. I guess that settles it. Sorry, but I think we need to stay on the Interstates today.”

To this moment, never in all our travels has weather caused us to eliminate or change a major trip component. We have circled around thunderstorms or waited a few hours for weather to clear, but never have we completely deleted a part of the trip. But today we will. No mountain riding for us on this trip. We’ve been over nearly every road in New England and we’ll be back, but for today we resign ourselves to a day on the Interstates. And thus we ride onto I-295, I-95, I-290, I-90, and other Interstates that will bypass Boston and New York but are basically heavy-duty business routes. My least favorite routes! Country roads, not!

We run into the big storm within 50 miles, much sooner than I anticipated. It has been raining hard but soon after we pass a rest area where we could have pulled off and waited, the rain intensifies; it comes pouring down, snapping hard raindrops that sound almost like hail against our helmets and the Tulsa windshield. Traffic is slowing to 35 mph. The Tulsa windshield actually doesn’t clear very well at such speeds, but visibility is decent. Fortunately, as the rain has increased, the fog has dissipated.

“Remember those times I said I didn’t want to think about my tires?” I say to Kitty in the headset. “Now this is what I’m talking about! Wouldn’t you just hate to be wondering right now if we should have changed the bike’s tires?” These new Michelins are amazing. To add to the complexity of this morning’s little ride, in the midst of this downpour we have a 9-mile stretch of construction where the road is milled. I’ve ridden over lots of milled surfaces, and my fellow bikers well know the twitchy feeling in the handlebars and the seat as the bike constantly tries to find its line and never quite achieves it. Kitty hates riding those surfaces because the bike feels so unstable to her. At least the rider gets feedback through the handlebars and can feel what the bike is doing. These Michelins defy logic as they refuse to twitch on the milled surfaces we’ve experienced on this trip. Of all the tires I’ve had, never has a set been so impervious to the “twitchies”! It’s very gratifying as we ride through the downpour.

I don’t use CB Channel 19 a lot when traveling with Kitty, but in this weather, it’s important to be able to talk to the truckers so I have it on, very loud in our headsets, apologies to Kitty. I’ve discovered that in general, truck drivers really look out for motorcycles and when they find out they can talk to us they are usually as fiercely protective as a mother hen with her brood.

They are talking about our motorcycle, the “Evel Knievel” in the right lane. Now, since this is a family story, I have to edit out about two-thirds of the actual words we hear over the CB.

“***, there’s a *** Evel Knievel in the *** right lane!” says one. “That guy must be trying to collect a *** insurance policy on whoever he’s carrying on the back, or he doesn’t have any *** brains!”

“***, I know I wouldn’t want to *** be out here on a *** motorcycle. I know I’d do something *** stupid and fall down.”

I let them talk for a while without saying anything. Finally I key up my own CB and say “Hi, y’all big trucks, I’m the Evel Knievel in the right lane. That’s my wife I’m carrying on the back, and I sure don’t want to collect any insurance policy. So I guess that leaves me without any brains!”

“***, you *** ok back there?” asks another driver.

“Yeah, we ok here,” I respond. “Just easin’ down the road, 40 mph. Only problem is when you guys pass me, then I can’t see much for a while!”

“Where you headed?”

“Been in Canada for week, just wondering home to Virginia. Lovely day for a ride!”

Suddenly, at the limits of my forward visibility, the world disappears into a white cloud of mist.

“Oh, *** *** ***!” yells a driver over the CB. “We just hit a *** big puddle of water up here! I mean a *** POND of water all the way across the road! Can’t see ***!”

I’m riding 40 mph and there is no time to slow or for evasive action (whatever that might be). My big bike plows into the standing water and I pull the clutch, hold my breath, and it’s the longest 5 seconds of my life with a complete white-out as torrents of water cascade over the entire rig. It must be like standing under Niagara Falls. Then we’re through it, and I can breathe again, and I can see again, and we’re still upright, and the engine is still running, and a trucker is yelling “Hey motorcycle! Did you make it through ok?”

“Yeah, we made it,” I say on the CB. “I just pulled the clutch and rode through it. The bike never wobbled or had any indication it was in trouble.”

“You’re a lot more *** calm than I’d be!” says the driver. “I think I’d need me a new *** pair of shorts! We were three abreast up here and couldn’t see a thing! It’s a good thing one of us wasn’t beside you!” It is indeed! After this, many of the truckers that run up beside us to pass issue a fair warning over the CB. They do protect their motorcycle buddies.

At a little before 1:00 PM we stop for fuel, then enjoy a welcome warm cup of soup and a full lunch in a nearby Chili’s Restaurant. We take our time and talk about what we want to do. One option that would get us some more “country roads,” albeit Interstates, would be to ride I-84 to Albany and then return to Binghamton, New York on I-88. At least that would get us out of the East Coast business corridor.

We travel over 250 rain-soaked and weather-slowed miles until we are finally out of the worst of the weather and there are patches of clouds and even a hint of blue sky. At the cutoff for I-84 West, we see another huge and well-organized storm exactly in the path we would be taking.

“I’ve had enough vicious storms for today!” I say. “Sorry, Baby, looks like even this attempt to find a country road is going to fail.” And so we keep to a route that will eventually take us to I-287 and bypass New York City.

From lunch until we stop for the night at 6:30 PM just across the Tappan Zee bridge in Nyack, New York, we’ve ridden 198 miles on a single tank of fuel, farther than I ever remember riding while two-up and towing the trailer, and the low-fuel light hasn’t come on yet. I suppose the rain-slowed pace has had a good bit to do with the unusually high fuel mileage. Kitty and I have been on the bike without a break for exactly four hours. Once again I’m astonished at how much longer she can ride than in the old days.

And thus a rain-soaked 342-mile day draws to a close. We’ve ridden 2,502 miles total. Because of the vicious weather that blanketed New England today, we have decided to just ride out the miles until we get home, which will probably be tomorrow, a day earlier than I’d sketched it months ago. Slow-Down Guy is in serious hibernation today!

It was sunny and 72F when we arrived at the motel in Nyack, but now rain is once again pouring down and thunder is booming across the sky. It seems fitting that we should end our search for country roads in the rain and fog. We’ll see about that tomorrow.

See you then.


GPS Track Log
(Blue route is the foiled New England country road plan)

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