Tales from the Road: MACH.19 - Saguaro Country, Day 16: Transitions

Saguaro Country, Day 16
Transitions
Monday, May 13, 2019

My Gold Wing has a new heart! Yesterday was filled with fruitless attempts to get a battery amid concerns that the electrical charging system may have caused the battery failure. This morning, I called the local NAPA store in Gila Bend and Chico said he'd call me back. An hour later he did, and was exceedingly happy, genuinely so, to report that he had an AGM battery in stock. I explained where we were and asked if he could deliver it. "Of course, I'd be happy to bring it to you," he said.

"You seemed surprised to find you had a battery in stock," I say.

"Yes, I was a little surprised, but mostly happy," is his response. He explains that a lot of motorcycles of all makes travel through "his" little town, and he tries to keep stock for just about every touring model.

I don't quite have the old battery off the bike when he arrives because I didn't recall that you need to take off the seat, or at least loosen it, to get to the battery clamp bolt, so that takes some extra time. I install the new battery, double-check the connections, and turn the key.

It's like sunshine explodes in my chest! The familiar whir as the suspension preload activates, all the familiar lights on the dash, the navigation screen booting up, it all seems so perfect. I press the starter button and Crusader leaps eagerly to life. I button up the seat and side panel and we are ready to load out.

"I think you better take a little break," says Kitty. I'm not sure why, but it was pretty hot out there. Or it might be she sees my hands shaking with excitement.

Yesterday it seemed so wrong to have my motorcycle, normally instantly responsive to my every wish, sit there as though stone cold dead. So wrong! I knew we'd find a resolution, but it was really painful trying to be patient and not be frustrated.

We drop off the old battery about a mile down the street at the NAPA store. Chico nearly bursts out of the back room when he sees the bike in front of the store. "You're on your way!" he shouts jubilantly.

We thank him profusely, and spontaneously, Kitty says "Can I give you a hug?"

"Oh, yes, thank you! God bless you! I hope you have a wonderful trip!"

Here's a man we can all take lessons from. He was so genuinely happy that he could help someone that it was truly inspiring and touching. Would we could all have some of that spark in our lives as we touch those around us!

As one last touch, there's a Goodyear auto service shop next door, so I have the manager test the alternator voltage as an independent validation. Resting battery voltage is 12.3, perfect. I start the bike up and the alternator voltage shows 14.4. He's concerned - "Cars only put out 14.2 max." I assure him that for this Gold Wing, 14.4 volts is the magic number and confirms the alternator is working and not likely the cause of a failure. I have a voltage meter on the bike and it's been showing overcharge but I thought it was flaky. It hasn't been the most reliable and will be replaced when we get home. I now think the battery was in failure mode for several days and the voltage meter was accurately portraying the system's attempt to resuscitate the battery. We're really thankful it failed where it did, with a nice place to say, a restaurant, and after waiting a day, local help.

We roll out at 11:00 AM and talk about the trip. There are consequences to losing a day and a half. We compromise and decide to ride this day as planned, and when we reach Flagstaff tonight, we can then decide whether to simply get onto I-40 homeward or keep a modified route into the Utah desert with its magnificent spectacles.

We catch US 89 as we wander generally northward west of Phoenix, through exceedingly flat and barren desert country. There's a lot of irrigation farming here and the fields of alfalfa appear lush and deep green against the sand-colored landscape populated with creosote bushes.

North of Phoenix we being to see a definite change as we being a long climb to the Arizona High Country. There are more mountains and hilly country, more greenery, and the road is curvy. Just a preview of things to come!

In the Prescott National Forest, the desert where we've spent the last number of days has been replaced by curvy roads carving through mountains with pine trees. There are a lot of switchbacks and technical turns that keep me busy with a passenger and a trailer. The trailer doesn't really affect handling, but you have to remember that when you're carving that right-hand curve and finding the perfect lean angle, you best not put your bike six inches from the edge of the road. Your trailer will be in the ditch or over the side.

Once in the high country, US 89 is a righteous motorcycle road by any standards, well-graded and well-paved with sweeping curves and enough tight turns to keep you on your toes. This is a spectacular ride and I'm glad we made the choice to do this, regardless of what we may do afterward.

After a fuel stop in Prescott, AZ, we eventually leave US 89 and make our way on a variety of routes toward Sedona. I've routed Alt-89 as a mandatory ride because I've never ridden that road and every motorcycle touring book mentions it.

Sedona is spectacular with red rock cliffs that I imagine are 2000 feet tall. It is bewildering to me that just a few hours ago we were flat desert land, and now here we are in what appears to be different planet! Awesome.

But what a traffic mess! Traffic is being single-tracked for construction, and we probably spend 40 extra minutes moving painfully through the heat. My GPS announces maybe a dozen time "In three-tenths of a mile, at the next roundabout, take the second exit." I'm so tired of taking the second exit.

Eventually we break free and begin the run along the floor of Oak Creek Canyon. From Sedona, we are climbing out of the canyon, and the massive red cliffs dominate every view when not masked by the trees. This too is a spectacular run. I'm not able to take pictures because I have to pay attention to the road. We finally climb out of the canyon in a series of tight second- and first-gear turns. I haven't been in my usual screaming-around-the-curves mode today ("I was kinda glad you weren't!" says Kitty later) but there's plenty of screamers to be ridden for those who are in that mode.

GPS elevation graph, Gila Bend AZ to Williams AZ

If you observe the GPS elevation track of today's ride, it starts in Gila Bend AZ and ends in Williams AZ (typically thought of as the gateway to the Grand Canyon). First comes the long slow climb in the transition zone, then the run through Prescott National Forest and out of the mountains on a long steep Interstate downgrade to Sedona. The second climb represents the journey from the Oak Creek canyon floor to the top, and then a short run on the Interstate.

As we approach I-40 for the last 30 miles of the ride, we stop to don another layer of warmth (the temperature has gone from 86F near Phoenix to 59F here). I put my camera into the trunk, and almost immediately spot snow-covered mountains. It's just crazy to me how in one day's ride we can go from flatland desert to snow-covered mountains. The elevation graph helps explain a lot.

At the motel, I say "This has been a rewarding day, Baby!" And she agrees. We're glad we did it, keeping at least this part of the trip intact. It's a mandatory laundry night and we need to figure out the rest of our trip. Yesterday, Kitty got tears in her eyes when I said we would miss Monument Valley, which I've seen only from airplanes on coast-to-coast flights. "That's one the primary reasons you chose this route, isn't it?"

It is, but losing time has consequences. Kitty is an amazing co-rider; today in our 290 mile ride, we had one single stop for fuel, and the remainder of the time was spent in the saddle. No complaints, no requests for a break, and this evening she's feeling fine! The lady on a motorcycle travels well! Now she wants me to see if we can't configure the route to include Monument Valley even if it means riding 500+ days to get home. I would never ask her to do that.

Stay tuned. Even we are not sure what adventures next await.